bonzelite

"The N1 R32 GT-R was introduced on July 19, 1991, and had a total production of only 228 units. N1 cars were produced to compete in Group N racing, and included the Nismo aero kit; but also, to improve the cars reliability during endurance events, an upgraded engine block, higher flow oil and water pumps, and more reliable ball-bearing turbo-chargers. The GT-R's 16" wheels were replaced by 17"x8 wheels with 225/50/17 tires. N1 GT-Rs were made lighter (1470 kg) by removing the ABS, rear wiper, air-conditioner and radio, and installing lighter headlights. All [R33] GT-R N1 cars were painted in color code 326 --Crystal White. The list price of the N1 was ¥ 5 million."

N1 engine:
- Cylinder block: N1 specification
- Piston: N1 specification
- Nur specification Piston ring
- N1 specification Connecting rod
- Nur specification Connecting rod metal: NISMO made
- NISMO made Camshaft
- hi-flow Water pump
- N1 specification Oil pump
- N1 specification Timing belt
- NISMO Head gasket: NISMO metal gasket T = 1.2
- Oil pan baffle plate: NISMO

more on N1 engine HERE

bonzelite

-the NUR engine is based on the N1 engine block
-the N1 engine is thicker than standard one

-the main difference between the N1 engine and the NUR engine is a better weight balance of the pistons and con-rods in the much smoother NUR spec; otherwise the engines are nearly the same.

-main difference between a standard RB26DETT and a superior N1 RB26DETT are pistons, piston rings, con-rods, smoother exhaust manifold, thicker metal.

-OEM standard RB26 air flow meters and injecotrs are good for up to about 440ps.
-for beyond 440HP with uprated injecotrs, a large capacity fuel pump and AFMs are needed.

-when using over 1.2 bar (about 16psi) boost pressure, head gasket should be changed to metal.

-first runs of the 1989 RB26DETTs placed in the GT-R32s are actually N1 blocks, but cost limitations reduced the following engines to standard RB26DETTs.

there are generally three type of engines:

1) NUR RB26DETT
2) N1 RB26DETT
3) GTR34 RB26DETT
4) GTR32/GTR33 RB26DETT

major difference between 3) and 4) is the con-rod bearing
3) uses N1 con-rod bearing.

bonzelite

R32 GTR
Length 178.93 in | 4545 mm.
Width 1755.001 mm | 69.1 in.
Height 52.75 in | 1340 mm.
Wheelbase 102.95 in | 2615 mm.

R33 GTR
Length 184.05 in | 4675 mm.
Width 70.101 in | 1780.6 mm.
Height 53.501 in | 1358.9 mm.
Wheelbase 107.101 in | 2720.4 mm.

R34 GTR
Length 181.101 in | 4600 mm.
Width 70.301 in | 1785.6 mm.
Height 53.54 in | 1360 mm.
Wheelbase 104.9 in | 2665mm.

bonzelite

to calculate the rotational velocity of a tire at a given vehicle speed (assuming insignificant slippage) take the tangential velocity at the point of contact and divide by the radius to rotational center.

that a particular patch of rubber may travel a certain distance every revolution has no bearing on the relationship of rotational speed to vehicle velocity; any particular piece of tread may have significantly varying tangential velocity as it goes around the rotational axis (since radius can vary). what makes the car go is the velocity each patch has when it is in contact with the ground.

for example, for a pair of tires on an axle: and the differential is not locked (allowing different rotational speeds), and the vehicle is moving in a straight line, and one of the tires has lower pressure than the other (assuming they would be the same size if equally pressurized), then the lower-pressure tire will complete more revolutions for a given distance of vehicle travel.

in short: tire pressure affects rotational speed.

changing the tire pressure changes the rolling radius, ie, the distance from the road to the center of the hub.

the entire circumference of the tread surface must contact the road surface during each revolution, but due to compliances the tread compresses slightly in the contact patch zone, and somewhere within that region the tangential tread velocity equals road speed.

www.eng-tips.com

bonzelite

the term "sequential manual transmission" is thrown around in tuning circles and magazine articles. it seems people can talk about it all day yet never really explain what it is. and if you dare ask what it is, you risk being made fun of, yet it's a very basic thing. anyone who's ever had a motorcycle has used a sequential transmission. it's not a new idea and has been around for decades.

essentially, the typical manual shift "H" pattern is eliminated and replaced with a different motion --a linear movement of the stick forward (to upshift) or backward (to downshift). this eliminates mis-shifts or skip-shifts, and is able to engage into the proper gear almost instantly, keeping the engine in an optimum rev range. this type of transmission, when used in a car, is most often found in racing applications; only very recently has this technology crept into mass consumer markets (the Ferrari 599GTB has such a feature).

in F1 cars, the stick shift is elimiated and replaced with two paddles on either side of the steering wheel. the left paddle up-shifts, while the right paddle downshifts. on a motorcycle it's nearly the same, but instead you move a lever up and down with your foot.

more than likely, the new GT-R will be equipped with an F1 paddle type of sequential gearbox, with a traditional manual shift 6 speed offered as an option (my speculation)

bonzelite

BNR32
KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic
KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic
TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl
AH3 - Read Pearl Metallic
732 - Black Pearl Metallic
326 - Crystal White
KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic
BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl (special order)

from:
http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/sh...ad.php?t=37809

bonzelite

BNCR33
AN0 Super Clear Red
BN6 Beep Marine Blue
KH3 Black
KL0 Spark Silver
KN6 Dark Grey
LP2 Midnight Purple
QM1 White
KP4 Sonic Silver
AR1 Super Clear Red 2

BNR34
TV2 Bayside Blue
QM1 White
KR4 Sonic Silver
KV2 Silver
GV1 Black Pearl
AR2 Active Red
EV1 Lightning Yellow
LV4 Midnight Purple 2
WV2 Sparkling Silver
QX1 White Pearl
LX0 Midnight Purple 3
EY0 Silica Breeze
JW0 Millenium Jade

bonzelite

BCNR33
some of last R33's were R34 black which is "GV1"

last production numbers:
GT-R BCNR33-043740 11-9-98 White
Vspec BCNR33-043743 11-9-98 Black Pearl (R34 color)

BCNR33
BT2 Champion Blue - LeMans R33 blue
__________________

bonzelite

indeed, most modern performance cars require synthetic motor oils, ie, Mobil 1 [most newer cars spec synthetic use only], but here is some breaking news about the manufacture of newer engine motor oils and what possible side effects this may incur on older or classic vehicles:

preface from:
http://www.hagerty.com/NewsManager/t...nt-article.htm

"In an effort to reduce harmful emissions caused by the burning of engine oil, manufacturers have reduced or removed some oil additives that are essential to keeping older engines running. Flat-tappet engines common in older British cars as well as Volvos and some American engines are wearing cams and lifters at a remarkably high rate.

Opinions as to the cause of this phenomenon vary to some degree. However most agree that today’s oils are not formulated with flat-tappet engines in mind as they are no longer produced for by any major automobile manufacturer.

In the last two to three years, there has been a reduction in the amount of zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP) contained in motor oils recommended for use with gasoline engines. In flat-tappet engines, this additive protects lifters and cam lobes from premature damage due to heat and friction by acting as a sacrificial layer between the cam lobe and lifter."

--------------------------------------------------------------

from:
ClassicProfessionalVehicles@yahoogroups.com

"This message came to me from a friend, Patrick, in Canada, a fellow British Ford Z car owner and I felt it important enough to copy in total to you guys for your consideration.

-Mike Frankovich [of ClassicProfessionalVehicles]

Hi Everyone,

A racer friend sent this to me. In a nutshell, we should only be using Diesel spec oils in our cars. Read the article and you will see why.

Patrick

Original from Keith M. Ansell of Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.

Oil is killing our cars...

About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oils was based on the fact that phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere.

A couple of months ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder (Delta Cam) and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly. Then the bad news came out: It's today's "modern" API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines: Meaning all flat tappet (cam follower) equipped engines, as used in all BMC products, all British Leyland products, most pushrod engines prior to 1980, early Volvos, American high-performance engines and many others.

Next call: To a major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won't fail in an unreasonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet engines.

Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Red Line Oil). Their response: "We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products". They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don't have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the "new, improved and approved" ones that destroy flat tappet engines! "We just build the best lubricants possible". Sounds stupid, doesn't it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars.

To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to "warn us" of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! "The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers". They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper oil additive put in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil needs the additive but remain skeptical that the first oil is all that is necessary. Their suggestion: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations.

This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding.

Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was "VERY" aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn't rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the "bad news" we have been finding.

Comp Cams put out "#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts". They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was "While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from the "off-the-shelf oil".

Next question: Now what do we do?

From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) "Use oils rated for diesel use", Delo (Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other quality petroleum based oils. They have the ZDDP we need in weights we are familiar with.

From one camshaft manufacturer (Crane): "use our additive" for the first 500 miles.

From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier, to your oil, it's only an 8-ounce can (This problem seems to be something GM has known about for some time!). The additive says for break-in only, some dealers add it to every oil change.

From Redline Oil: Use our street formulated synthetics. They have what we need! Early in 2007 they will be supplying a "break-in oil" specifically for our cars.

From Castrol: We are beginning to see a pattern emerging on older cars. It may be advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such as oils that are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle oils and other specified diesel oils. They will be supplying "new oils" specifically for our cars in early 2007.

For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to "Stand" the molecule up on the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metals of the cam and tappet from contacting each other. Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines, therefore the need for ZDDP in all diesel engines.

Second part of the equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly bonds to the zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial layer to the metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create problems; lack of this material reduces the effectiveness of the ZDDP. The percentage, by weight is from .01 to .02%, not much, but necessary according to the chemists.

Now there is no denying that there is a problem, lack of ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl DithioPhosphate) in modern oils kills at least our cams and tappets. There seems to be no known alternative.

Our cars are a small percentage of the total market and BIG Corporate, the American Petroleum Institute and possibly government have made decisions that are detrimental to our cars. This problem isn't going away. The trend today is to lighter weight oils to decrease drag, which increases mileage. Most of these seem to be the "Energy Conservation" oils that we cannot use.

Redline oil and others are suggesting a 3,000-mile break-in for new engines! Proper seating of rings with today's lubricants is taking that long to properly seal. Shifting to synthetics before that time will just burn a lot of oil and not run as well as hoped.

The "Energy Conservation" trend was first led by automakers to increase mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other chemicals degrade the catalytic converter after extended miles, increasing pollution. Most of us don't have catalytic converters and the mileage gains are not that significant.

Many oil companies may have products that will continue to function well in our cars. Castrol, Redline, Valvoline, Mobil, Shell, Amsoil and others have now commented on my original article and are making suggestions. Some companies are offering short lists of "acceptable" oils, others just one. One company has responded without any substantive information in a two-page "bulletin". By their account all their oils are superior and applicable. This is typical of many companies.

Some oil manufacturers are pointing to metallurgy, blaming poorly built cams and followers. This may have some validity but the bottom line is that there has been a big increase in failures with products that have been on the market for many years but are now having greatly increased failures. To me the bottom line is, if the lubricants are working there is no contact between surfaces, it shouldn't matter what the materials used in the products are, within reason.

On "modern" production cars, stay with the manufacturers' suggestions. For any car produced before about 1990 the owner needs to be aware that the factory suggested lubricant may have changed and may not be applicable. Flat tappet, stock, performance or modified may be affected. MGBs from 1975 to 1980 must choose to sacrifice the cam or the catalytic converter as an example of how difficult the decisions are becoming!

Yes, there is more! Castrol does understand our dilemma and is actively looking into what it can do to support our cars. We can soon expect to see products from them with specific application to classic cars. Red Line will be offering a "break-in" oil soon after the first of the year. Shell's Rotella will be good until about June or July of 2007 with possibly nothing after that date. Delo (Chevron) will also be questionable after the new "CJ-4" standards come in the middle of 2007.

Now the important information: Oils that may be correct for our cars today:

(As reported by manufacturers by 12-31-06, NOTE: many have changed their recommendations over the last three months!

Castrol: Syntec 5W-40, Syntec 20W-50, Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle oil in 10W-40 and 20W-50, TWS Motorsport 10W-60*, BMW Long Life 5W-30*

*= full synthetic, available only at BMW dealerships

Red Line: 10W-30, 10W-40 (Synthetic oils)

Valvoline: VR-1 20W-50 (Conventional oil)

Amsoil: 20W-50(TRO), 10W-40(AMO), 15W-40(AME) & 20W-50(ARO)

Mobil: Mobil 1 5W-30 and 20W-50 (Synthetic)

Chevron: Delo 400

Shell: Rotella

What we are doing at Foreign Parts Positively has been difficult to determine but with few options left, the following is what we are forced to do. Some of our choices have been based on the manufacturer' s willingness to help and specific reports. This list will change in the next months with Castrol and Red Line adding products just for our cars.

Break in: Delo 400 30W (A break-in oil will be available from Redline soon!)

Conventional oil: Valvoline VR-1 20W-50

Synthetic: Red Line 10W-30 in newer engines, 10W-40 on older engines.

Break-in is now 3,000 miles (using Delo 400 30W) before changing to running oil.

Oil change interval: 1 year or 18,000 miles with Red Line synthetic

1 year or 2,500 miles with conventional oil (Valvoline VR-1 20W-50).

Thank you to Castrol, Redline, Christiansen Oil, Valvoline, Mobil, Shell, Standard Oil and Amsoil for input. We're sure this subject will continue: Please forward any new information on this subject you may encounter.

We have received some very interesting material from "Mr Moly" that may be putting molybdenum disulfide (MoS) into this discussion. It seems that ZDDP plus MoS is the best from the oil companies' opinion but MoS by itself may be beneficial. Some racers swear by it. The literature seems to support "Mr. Moly's" position.

Keith M. Ansell

Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.

www.ForeignPartsPos itively.com <http://www.foreignp artspositively. com/>

Kma4285@msn. com

360-882-3596"

bonzelite

overview of quick facts and figures for R32 GT-R:

number of units manufactured: 43,934 vehicles.

Standard 40,390
NISMO 560
V-spec 1,453
V-specII 1,303
N1 version 228

Chassis Numbers:

GT-R NISMO (sold 500) : BNR32-100000 - BNR32-100560
Version 1: 21/08/1999- : BNR32-000051 - BNR32-017466 (Note this model has no side impact bars)
Version 2: 20/08/1991- : BNR32-212001 -
Version 3: 01/01/1993- : BNR32-300001 - BNR32-314649

Annual Production 1989: 4,555
1990: 8,426
1991: 7,081
1992: 7,961
1993: 6,204
1994: 7,465

Body Colors
Version 1
- Gun Grey Metallic (KH2)
- Jet Silver Metallic (KG1)
- Dark Blue Pearl (TH1)
- Red Pearl Metallic (AH3) (Wine red!)
- Black Pearl Metallic (732)

Version 2 / Version 3
- Cristal White (326)
- Spark Silver Metallic (KL0)
- Gun Grey Metallic (KH2)
- Red Pearl Metallic (AH3) (Wine red!)
- Black Pearl Metallic (732)

Version 1 Released: 21th August 1989
Produced to make victory at Group A race.
Length: 4,545mm x Width: 1,755mm x Height: 1,340mm
Wheelbase: 2,615mm
Curb Weight: 1,430kg
Max Power: 280ps/6,800rpm
Max Torque: 36.0kg-m/4,400rpm
Engine: RB26DETT
Displacement: 2,568cc
* Twin ceramic blade turbochargers.
* Electrically controled torque split four wheel drive (ATTESA E-TS).
* 4 wheels multi-link suspensions.
* 225/50-16 tyres.

NISMO Released: 11th March 1990
Produced 560 BNR32 GTR Nismo as Group A evolution model. (Only 500 were sold)
* Metal blade turbochargers.
* Additional air intake on the front bumper.
* Bonnet hood top spoiler
* Bigger side sill protector.
* Rear auxiliary small rear spoiler.
* Less rear wiper.
* Less ABS.
* Less air-con.
* Less intercooler net.
* Curb Weight: 1,400kg (weight reduction by 30kgs.)

Version 2 Released: 20th August 1991
* Side impact door beam.
* Factory optional driver side airbag.
* Seatbelt warning indicator.
* Shock absorb steering wheel pad.
* Fireproofed interior materials.
* Revised headlight lense and H1 type headlight bulb.
* Curb weight: 1,480kg (50kgs increased.)

Version 3 Released: 3rd February
* Pull type clutch.
* Revised rear diff cover. (1994 onwards.)

V-spec Released: 3rd February 1993
Anniversary model for 3 years champion of Group A race.
* Height: 1,355mm (+15mm)
* Brembo brake calipers and discs.
* BBS aluminium wheels.
* 225/50-17 tyres.
* Curb weight: 1,500kg (20kgs increased.)

V-spec II Released: 14th February 1994
*Anniversary model for 4 years champion of Group A race.
*245/45-17 tyres.
*V-specII Sticker.

N1 version Base car for N1 Taikyu Championship Series. (Group N endurance race equivalent.)
* Additional air intake on the front bumper.
* Bonnet hood top spoiler
* Less rear wiper.
* Less ABS.
* Less air-con.
* Less intercooler net.
* Brake cooling air guide.
* Non projector headlights.
* Metal blade turbochargers. (V-spec N1 and V-spec II N1.)